Wrong gas tank! Waterslide Decal tutorial....

 

A word to the wise when buying a used (or new) tank for a BSA B31 rigid;  Make sure you get the measurements under the tank as well as on top.  

I learned the hard way, purchasing a tank advertised as being for a B31, however it turned out to be for a C11.   This is a common mistake apparently, as both are nearly identical from the top and side.  Both tanks feature a speedo mount within with the same badges and knee pads.  Underneath however is a totally different story.  

The tunnel for the the C11 is under 2" (I believe 1 3/4") the B31 should be closer to 3 3/4".  This is to accommodate the taller and larger motor.  

A new tank from India has been ordered, one in bare steel as chrome work from there seems to be a mixed bag.  My intention is to paint anyway and starting with a fresh tank will provide some peace of mind.  With the way the post is moving these days, it will likely arrive by Halloween.  I just hope that the specs on the sheet match what is actually delivered.

I decided to have some fun with the 'wrong' tank by painting it and making my own waterslide decals.  

Inkjet waterslide decal sheets are available on Ebay and other online sources for very little money.  I go online to find images I like and put them in MS paint for editing (This is as sophisticated as it gets for me!).

I usually print off a test sheet in black and white first in order to not waste ink.   The last time I attempted this it was a mess, as I didn't realize I was missing a crucial step.  

These are my sample sheets, along with a clear acrylic sealer.  Without this step, your decals will disintegrate! 

Here are the steps I followed.

1. Select and edit images

2.  Run B&W test sheet on plain paper

3. If satisfied, print sheet in full colour on glossy side of decal paper.

4. Carefully put the sheet aside to dry for 20 minutes- This is crucial as the ink can run and will smear 

if touched.  I always make sure to handle from the corner of the sheet. 

5. Once dry spray a light (or two very light coatings) of sealer.  I used Mod Podge which is widely available from most craft shops.

6. Let  the sheets dry for half an hour.

7. Cut out your decal and soak in water for thirty seconds or so, it will now slide off onto your chosen object.

One thing I will mention, is to bear in mind that these are transparent decals. If you want them to look the same as they do on the sheet, you will need to ensure the paint underneath matches. 

I cut a couple circles out and sprayed them white before sliding the decal on.  

I apologize for the final photo which is lacking in clarity, however it should give you an idea of results.  When the real tank arrives I can do a cleaner job and spend a bit more time and care on paint.  

Until Next time...

Rolling!

What better way to start a weekend than with some good news?  

The BSA is now rolling! 

I will let the pictures speak for themselves, though I will add a couple of notes. 

The headlight bracket was made from scrap laying in the garage.  I then gave it a quick coat of paint and mounted it.  The pillion pad is something I bought off of Ebay in 2007 and never used.  Another shelf piece that was collecting dust!  The bars are a $5.00 swap meet item.  The rigid B31 did not have fork gaiters (boots) originally.  It would have been equipped with long shrouds equipped with fork ears.  I did not have the budget or inclination to source them.  Instead, I found a set of fork brackets with no ears for $4.00 on Ebay.  Some filler, some paint and a trim to square off the bottom and it fitted perfectly.  A pair of cut down Matchless fork covers sit between the bottom yoke and the springs.  These allow the boots something to sit on. Headlight is another Ebay item, purchased for $7.00.  I bought this to get the 5 3/4 Lucas lens, however I ended up using the whole thing.  It is made by Griffin and was originally used on the mustang mini bikes of the 50's and 60's.  

 Finally,  the seat springs for the seat are from fortnine and are intended for a Harley Davidson. They look good and were only $17.00.  

Things are moving! 

Until next time.....

Lockdown build Progress...

A quick update!  

With the front end sorted out, I was able get a few other things started.  

I swapped out the old Dunlop trials for the Pirelli which looks miles better.

In this shot, the DIY seat pan is also on display.  This was made from an old metal shelf donated by my friend Chris.

I still need to mount lugs, cut foam and make a cover.  I am happy to say that the shape is right and the mock up looks very good! 

Until Next time! 

Fork tragedy to Fork triumph!

Sometimes the jobs that appear to be most straightforward are the ones with the most complications. 

The Ebay fork sliders were as described and I was very pleased to get them.  An added bonus was that the seller threw in some internal spares which may be of use someday.  I cleaned them up, gave them a quick coat of paint and started to put them together.

The drive side fork went together fairly well, although it had a slight notch when reaching and rebounding from full dampening.

(It should be noted that I am using some mismatched parts here;  Unknown stanchions and bearings, etc.  Any heartache involved would be entirely self prescribed!)

The timing side was an entirely different situation;  The stanchion only slid about 2" from the top.
I tried the other stanchion, which did a little better at 3.5" 

I did not take too many photos as I was deeply embroiled in solving the issue at hand.  I will do my best to describe my work in case it can help someone else with the same problem.

I started by stripping the stanchion and placing it in the slider all the way.  I then took some painters tape and wrapped it around the stanchion at the top of the slider.  I now had a measurement to work from.

I was a little stumped as to how I would fix the inner part of the slider.

Sand it?  Wire wheel attachment on a drill?  Grinding paste?

I was then hit with some inspiration.   I began searching online for a brake cylinder hone small enough to fit to fit the bore.

Luckily, Princess Auto had just the thing in stock for $11.99.

I started honing, with occasional addition of mineral oil to act as a cutting fluid.  I would then insert the rebuilt stanchion and check my progress against the taped line.  It was clear that I wasn't getting deep enough into the bore to do the job properly.

I fished around in my drill bit spares to find something to use as an extension;  This was then fitted with some Permatex Steel Weld putty and left to cure.

This worked beautifully as I was able to get the full slider honed out to the right dimension.  I put the piece in the vice horizontally and continued until I finally achieved my goal.  With the 220 grit stones, this was a long process, one that I did over a couple days in intervals.  I would not recommend using a more coarse grit as it may remove too much material.  In that event the unit would be scrap.

The wonderful feeling of working forks turned to despair, when I realized I had (at some point) banged the top of the stanchion, taking it slightly out of round.  The nut would no longer fit!

I started to make phone calls, to see if anyone of my contacts had a spare leg for me.  No such luck.

I posted on the CVMG Facebook group and was contacted by a local machinist name Larry who offered to have a look at it.  I did not need to be asked twice!

The next day I went over and he worked his magic on the lathe, re-cutting the thread and testing with the nut.  We chatted about bikes and I admired his Commando built from parts with many handmade stainless steel pieces.  He refused to take any money for the work and invited me to return should I need any more help.  A true gentleman and a tremendous talent!

With the forks sorted, the project is now back on track.

Until next time....

Ironing out the niggling details....

In some regards, restoring a bike back to spec is easy.   By easy, I mean having definite guidelines and photographic references to follow.  Hard work?  Absolutely.  Once you have all the right parts however, it can be similar to building a life sized Airfix kit.

Building a custom bike or something from random parts can be much more challenging; Often the smallest victories yield the greatest rewards.

My latest victory was in the form of a tail light.  As trivial as it may sound, I could not find the right tail light/brake light for this build.  This had actually been driving me to distraction for the better part of two years.

I played around with a variety of different styles, finally settling on an original English made Sparto piece that I fabricated a lens for.

Close, but not quite.

It looked good and was very, very close to being right.  It just wan't right enough.

Back to the drawing board.

My criteria was fairly straightforward.  I wanted something that looked period, flowed with the bike and was functional.  I also wanted something unique and lighter than the Sparto unit.   To make life harder, I didn't want a repop item from China or India.  There is a cheapness to these items that always seems to let the side down.

Cruising around on Ebay, I spotted something a little bit different.  It was an NOS Lucas light I had never seen before, a model VT31.  There wasn't much online about it, just that it was used on bicycles and mopeds primarily.  The asking price was low, so I took a chance.

Rather than fabricate a backing plate, I decided to modify something I already had.

The plate is most certainly a DIY item, I have no idea what the off-set drilled holes were for.

The first step was to weld some plate on the back to cover the holes.  I then welded some steel washers into the holes and removed the plate on the back.  Next, I lined up the light in order to drill the mounting holes.

Then a little filler and a bit of paint.

Front 

Side view

I am really happy with the way that this turned out.  It certainly checks all the boxes for me with the added bonus of having lots of character.  Although hard to see in the photos, the light is actually adjustable so I can fine tune when the rear mudguard is in place.

Until next time....

Battery Box/Tool Tray build

I confess that I didn't get a lot done over the Christmas break, however I did manage to accomplish several small jobs.

One of these items was the construction of a battery box for the G9 project.  The 1955 frame is a unique one in a few different regards, one being the off-set side mounted battery placement.

Rather than look for an original, I decided to make my own with some scrap lying around.  The box is a little oversize in order to accommodate (small) tools and mountings for my exhaust (more on that next post).  This will also give me more leeway when I eventually buy another battery.

It is always a pleasure to make my own parts, no matter how primitive they may be.  This is the freedom that comes with building a (mild) custom bike rather than a concours restoration.

I wasn't able to take pictures during the welding/cutting/grinding phase, but you get the idea.

The box has since been coated in black chassis paint, the strap came from a discarded Bell & Howell Filmo camera.

Until next time.......

Free Bike! 1970 Yankee Boss 50

This was gifted to me by a dear friend and lovely co-worker from my old job.  She wanted this one owner bike to go to a good home, so I was happy to oblige.  All original and it takes up very little space!

This was made by a small company in Italy named B&M Bologna and sold in the US as a Yankee.

My plans are just to clean it up and ride around the neighborhood.

Life is full of surprises....

Mini Bike Magazine - Sept. 1970








Until Next Time.....

Silhouette printer paper review (make your own decals and stickers)

As I near my 100th post, I find myself busier than ever with hands on work.  I had hoped to document more of the Matchless build but find it difficult to stop and capture everything on film.  I have chosen to do an extensive write up once rolling and include the photos and notes that I have taken.

In the meantime I wanted to quickly review a product I picked up last year but only started playing with.

I am not a always a fan of decals/stickers on vehicles, but sometimes they work well.  That vintage 'STP' on an old desert sled oil tank can add the right level of character.

Ebay has lots of old stickers and water slide pieces, however these can be a gamble.   I have been lucky a few times (the one on my Matchless tank worked out well) and unlucky on other occasions where the decal disintegrated.

That was when I thought about making my own and decided to do some research.  What I ended up investing in was something called Silhouette Paper acquired from Hobby Lobby ($9.99 for 8 sheets).

This is a clear vinyl sticker paper that can be used with any home laser printer.  I gathered a few random vintage images and put them all on the same screen in MS Paint (I like things kept simple!)

As you can see, I foolishly wasted a good portion of the first sheet.  Next time I will load every inch to get the best bang for the buck!   I would also recommend running a test page on regular paper to make sure everything looks right.

I am impressed by the quality of the end result;  The paper holds colour well and there was no bleeding at all.  The fact that it prints onto a clear sheet is a huge benefit.  My 'Made in England' decal was the only disappointment, I did a test fit on the frame and it could barely be seen.  On a brighter background it works well but the edges can clearly be seen.

Where this product really shines is with more 'solid' images such as this BA sticker.

For the money, this is a great product.  Perfect to produce a good number of stickers for a toolbox, project bike, etc. 

Until Next Time......

Nardi steering wheel restoration

I picked this up about ten years ago for my father's 1989 Miata.  It was never in mint shape (made in 1981) but it was certainly good enough to use. 

The poor old Miata has had a rough life.  I think my father is the 8th owner or something near it.  Nonetheless, it has always run well and delivered boat loads of fun.  Especially after the turbocharger, upgraded wheels and suspension was done. 


A couple years ago, I noticed some horrible rot in the floor and my dad, rather than scrap her, had the work done.  When the car came back, the clutch stopped working.  So it sat still most of last year.   I had been meaning to fix things up for a while, but was sidelined by all my other projects.  This year the little roadster will have a great summer.  Starting with a freshened steering wheel. 

Not good!

It looked a lot worse in my hands than in the photo.  The old varnish had virtually peeled away, leaving exposed wood underneath.  

Step one was to scrape off as much as possible, then apply some paint remover.  I had expected the remaining material to come off quite easily but I was mistaken.  Back to scraping!

Looking better already!

Step two was to sand down with 220 grit sandpaper, being mindful not to remove too much material or create flat spots.  I also filled some minor cracks with wood filler.

I fished around the solvent cupboard and found a can of  Cherry wood Minwax.  I decided to give it a go.  

Coat one.

I added the first coat and was immediately taken with the dark tone.  I let it cure for a couple days before the next treatment.  The stain didn't seep into the wood filler but I had a plan for that.

I found a furniture repair pen in my drawer, the type used for fixing minor scratches.  On to the next round.

I picked up some Marine grade varnish (small can) from Canadian Tire for $8.00.   I did two coats with 24 hours of curing in between.  

  I am very pleased with the way this one turned out; it looks good and fresh, without looking too new.  The last job is to apply some autosol to the spokes.

Until Next time.....

Build the Plywagen!

Let's take a little trip back in time; To a bygone era when men had tools and knew how to use them. To a time when, for just the price of lumber and a magazine a man could build his own roadster. 

These free plans show the ingenuity, spirit and fun one could have in that era unhindered.  It's the closest you may ever get to having a set of time machine blueprints....

Enjoy!





Taken from Mechanix Illustrated, November 1964

Until Next Time....