Product Review: Harbour Freight 5lb Vibratory Tumbler

I had to look through my old posts to find my last product review and it has been a while!  I guess the fewer items I need to buy, the luckier I should consider myself as I must be well stocked for tools and chemicals, oils, etc.  

This is what happens when you never throw anything away and hoard all the tools you can find!
If I spend enough time looking though, I can always find something that would make my life easier.

This is certainly the case with the vibratory tumbler (not an obscene device as the name would imply!) from Harbour Freight.  

Harbour Freight

These come in two varieties, 18lb capacity and 5lb;  essentially a plastic bowl (mounted on springs) that is vibrated by a 12 volt motor underneath.  The idea is that you add media (walnut shells, plastic beads, etc) to the bowl, then your items will be cleaned off by the friction created.

I have been considering one of these for some time; with the sheer volume of rusty hardware that came with the Matchless project, consideration became necessity.  

I did attempt to find one of these locally with no luck and was disappointed with the other options.  The prices I did find were in the 150.00 CDN range before shipping and taxes.  

The sale at Harbour Freight ($53.99 on sale from $99) warranted a cross border trip, despite the weak dollar.   As far as media, fine walnut shells seemed like the best option to start with. 

My first mistake was to not read the instructions.  It is important for best results to add your media first (two thirds of the bowl should be filled) then add your items for cleaning.  The total weight including media should not exceed 5 lbs otherwise cleaning takes a while.  My first run was probably 7 hours, the pictures are below.

Before;  Make to add your items after adding the media

Here are the after results;  some of the items had to be thrown back in for more work, this was the best fo the lot.

Overall, the initial results were impressive and after washing off the film left by the walnut shell oil I was even happier.  I then used the wire brush attachment on the drill to remove bits of shell from the threads. 

 Not entirely effort free but a tremendous time saver.  The machine seems to run very smoothly and I have had mine on for nearly a week continuously without issue.  While at work or even asleep, the work can continue without me!  

Once I have experimented with other media I will post the results here.  I hope to find something that will remove paint and rust a little quicker than the fine shells do.  

I am going to go as far as calling this an essential bit of kit for someone who does a lot of restoration work.  For the money (especially the current price) you can't really go wrong. 

Don't surprised to read a review for the 18lb model sometime in the future.

Next time:  Project updates,  VW, Matchless and Triumph! 

Goodbye and Hello..

Time for a quick update, as I have some more detailed posts coming soon.

Looking around my garage a couple weeks ago, I knew it was time for me to re-evaluate my priorities.  My bench and shelves were full and I was struggling to find more than a square foot of useable space.   This inevitably meant letting go of parts and unfortunately, long term projects that I would never get around to finishing.

After long deliberation, I decided it was time to find a new home for the two Bridgestones.  I enjoyed having them and can be proud of the fact that I rescued two obscure bikes and brought them back from the brink.   It felt good to know they were going to someone who is passionate about vintage Japanese bikes, something I cannot confess to.



While I enjoy a wide variety of two wheeled vehicles, at the end of the day my heart will remain with British motorcycles.  I have decided to finish up all my outstanding projects and actually enjoy them on the road.  A novel and lofty concept, I know!


I was able to use the money to pay a couple bills and invest in the proper Burman CP gearbox for the G9 and a couple odds and ends.  I can also store things a little more easily and actually get organized (for once).

In other news I have found a local company (an hour away) to re-sleeve the G9 cylinder using the NOS sleeve I bought on Ebay.  I have been quoted around $200.00 which seems quite reasonable for the work involved.   The firm is called Cycle Improvements, they have been around since 1981 and seem to offer a wide array of services.  I will update once the work is done and post a review.  I have also found a good old stock standard bore piston from a fellow in Australia.  If all goes according to plan, I should have a useable motor by the end of the summer.

Firth Motorcycles 1951 Catalogue!

I have managed to source several vintage Firth Motorcycle catalogues (all from the same owner!) which I will share on the blog as I get them scanned and edited.

These to me, are a fascinating snapshot of life many moons ago and also a great way to identify mystery aftermarket parts.  

Just for fun I have included a link to an inflation calculator so you can convert 'then' prices to 'now' money.

Inflation calculator

A 350cc Matchless single would run you $5,160.45 in 2016, good value for money and about what you would pay for a new Royal Enfield Bullet.

Enjoy!

2000 Page Views!

Please allow me to humbly thank each and every person who took the time to read my blog.  2000 views may not seem like a lot to some, however it means a lot to me!   When I started, I really had no idea if anyone would be interested in my musings, it was more of a personal log.   I hope that I can continue to provide you with some entertainment, insight and enjoyable reading.


Something I have never really explored before is local motorcycle history.  This is primarily due to the fact that Canada was never a true manufacturer of motorcycles (Bombardier and early Indian production aside) but an importer.  That being said, there are a number of stories, shops and true characters whose stories should be told.  I can relay a few personal reflections from my early dealings with British bike shops,  however these are from the mid 90's and well past the glory days.  I will post about my induction into this world at a later time.

What I would like to do is preserve the memory of what bike shops used to be before the era of box stores and gentrification.  These were neighbourhood establishments were guys could 'BS' at the counter, get advice and feel at home with like minded enthusiasts.  In Toronto there used to be a dozen of these shops, all gone now.   Hamilton has managed to maintain the local shop on King street West, Sturgess Cycle.  I have always had good service there and purchased two new bikes over the last decade.   Poole's Harley Davidson is still on Parkdale but are no longer an official dealer.


I'm going to start the project with Firth Motorcycles, which was located at 1857 Danforth Avenue in Toronto.  Harry Firth was the primary importer of AJS/Matchless, Norton and later Royal Enfield.
 
Unfortunately I will only be able to verify if the G12 was sold there, as the G9 has been built from bits and has a strange serial number that no one can seem to make heads or tails of.  I am fairly confident that my father's Norton Commando basket case came from there, though I would need to check the paperwork (which actually came with the bike for once)

The building is still there, however it is now a bubble tea shop!  When the bike is done, I would like to drive by and pay homage to a piece of our lost motorcycle culture.

Below, we have a neat vintage advert and a picture of the old shop then and now.


If anyone out there has any literature, stories or photographs I would be very interested in seeing them.  Please feel free to leave a comment below.

Interesting to see the both the Matchless and AJS models sharing the name Globemaster rather than having distinct model designations.  The Globemaster name is new to me, localized marketing perhaps?

Those Prices!  Where is my time machine?  I believe I have a set of the $9.95 megaphones which were salvaged from Kohl's in Lockport.  This ad is the first time I have ever seen them advertised.

An artist's rendition, I hope to find an actual photograph soon. 

As it stands now,  I wonder if the old sign is still underneath?  It looks like the new proprietor just put up a banner.

Blood, sweat and beer..

Good news and bad news.  You can usually expect both when you start working on an old motorcycle.   I got both yesterday when I continued disassembly of the G9 motor.

After removing the pistons for measurement, I wiped them down and saw +060 stamped on the top.  

Unfortunately that is the kiss of death for Matchless cylinders, the absolute limit for boring. 

No point in having them measured now!

I did some research and managed to find one stock bore barrel in England for a good price,  some broken fins but I am certain that can be fixed fairly easily.  Perfection is a bit much to ask for a 65 year old bike.  I also found a NOS cylinder sleeve that would have to be pressed in.  I picked this up as more of a precautionary measure; I would prefer not to have to have this procedure done as it has dollar signs written all over it.  Big ones.  Hopefully another stock barrel shows up (the seller I bought from has his eyes out for one) and we can continue on.

The good news is that the bottom end looks good and rust free, the connecting rods also seem to be free of nicks and cracks.  As I mentioned previously, the crank does spin freely and it will of course need measuring.  I have the second G9 motor to play with as well.  I can take it apart, clean it up and harvest it for spares.  That is my 'practice' motor and will help me better learn how it all fits together.

Should you ever need it,  I found this handy chart to convert mm to ten thousdanths of an inch.

Conversion Chart

 I truly enjoyed the process of removing the pistons and taking things apart.  Cold beer at my side, I was able to focus on the task at hand and dull all the outside thoughts that sometimes distract me.   This may be something unique to someone with ADD, though I am sure it happens to others.  As I struggled to release the long held wrist pins (probably in there for several decades) I noticed a couple drops of blood on the engine casing.   I took another sip and finished the can, wiping my hand on a shop cloth. For the first time in a long while I felt like a motorcycle mechanic.

 I have to say,  It felt damned good.

Perspiration and Inspiration....

One of my goals with the Matchless G9 project is to make use of items that I have sitting around the garage collecting dust.  I really want to challenge myself creatively by using what I have to build something interesting, attractive and authentic.  By authentic I mean in keeping with a period feel, a machine that wouldn't have looked out of place 50 or 60 years ago.

I am on a severe budget this time and have to think on the level of the home engineer or true shed builder.  The budget needs to go to essentials such as gaskets, valves, springs and guides, piston rings (I am hoping just rings)  Main bearing and connecting rod bearings.  I also need to do some powder coating which is more economical than paint.   New tires and tubes will be required, new chains and wiring harness and cables.   Not a cheap enterprise, however the more I can salvage for the build and the more I can do myself will help considerably.

At best this machine is a 'Bitsa' with frame, engine and gearbox all coming from different years and models which are mercifully compatible.  This can be a special with none of the guilt of ruining an original bike.  That being said, my 'No Chop'  policy will still be in effect.

Here is what I have done so far;

1- cleaned up and de-rusted the barrels, tool boxes and clutch basket.  These are ready for powder coating.  I plan on having the bores measured this week.

2- I have ordered some parts,  mostly beat up and well used, I am currently massaging them back into shape.

3- started removing the swing arm tube in order to take the assembly apart.  Lots of sweat involved along with heat and penetrating fluid.  I am about 50% of the way there.

4- Research. Hours poured into reading articles, forums and parts books.  This is the most work of all so far.



Here is a short list of items (off the top of my head and shelves) that I have pulled down that may finally see some use!

1- Bates Headlamp (5 inch?) chrome NOS 1960's  (bought in 2007)
2- Black pillion pad  (I can't remember where it came from or when!)
3- Sparto style Taillight (bought in 2008 for my Triumph, never mounted)
4- Generic steel rear fender (bought in 2007 for a future project)
5- BSA rear wheel- Came with the Matchless, decent shape
6- A10 Super Rocket Fork legs (acquired from Andy who I met and posted about a few years ago here:  Another one gone

7- BSA front wheel- Ebay purchase from a while ago (compatible with the forks I have)
8- 60's era Leonelli switchgear (bought from a bin at the Paris rally in 2013)
9- 1966 Triumph Bars (originals from the 1966 TR6R project bike, my Father bought a NOS replacement set)

10- universal fork gaitors
11-  NOS 1960's/1970's universal mirror
12- Ceriani and BSA top and bottom yokes (not sure if either will work)
13- Bates style solo seat with springs-  I bought this in a parts lot on Ebay a few years back.


Now onto the inspiration portion of the post.  I have been asking myself what I want from this build, what is the vision and does that vision tie into my aforementioned goal?

My tastes run a little on the conservative side, I am the first to admit that.  I believe that British motorcycles are the apex of style, elegance, power and sheer beauty.  These aesthetics, the foundation laid so many years ago are still being imitated by both manufacturers and builders around the globe.  I couldn't imagine pouring heart, soul and wallet into anything less or anything else on two wheels.  The pictures below, pilfered from many different websites are my inspirations for the project.  You will note the similarities, single seat, pillion pad stripped down and lean in appearance.

This one has a fantastic look, simple and elegant, I would forgo the scrambler bars.

This is a concept drawing (not done by me!)  I like the stance, tank and headlight.  swingarm and disc brake are too modern for me.

Lovely as this one is, I chose it primarily for the colour contrast.  Perhaps something bright other than black? I really like the rear mudguard as well.

Other than the rigid frame this one is close (single cylinder engine aside)

Out of all of them, this is my favourite overall.  With a couple tweaks from the other pictures this could be it!

Now to get in gear back at Motocode HQ!  This bike will not build itself.....

Netflix and Chelate...

Rust.  The bane of every mechanic and restorer's existence.  How many times have we excitedly reached for that perfect part at a swap meet only to see that it is badly pitted or unusable?

Being in Southern Ontario this is a reality that is unavoidable;  I have seen some beautiful cars and bikes become scrap after falling victim to our good friend iron oxide.

Over the years I have relied heavily on white vinegar, usually the cleaning type with a higher acid concentration.  I have also used WD40 and steel wool, mainly for cleaning rims, evaporust, Rust remover concentrate (from Lee Valley) and naval jelly.

In past posts I have touched on some of my experiences with these various methods, some good, some less than satisfactory.   Evaporust for example, works well but is very expensive if you have a lot of parts.  Vinegar is fine in the summer if you don't mind the smell, however in colder temperatures it is useless as I recently discovered.

I am very pleased to say that I have found my all time, number one go-to solution from here on out.

Molasses.   Molasses and water.

Though I wish I could take credit for this discovery, I can't.  This has been around for many years, very popular in Australia in particular.   In my aforementioned lean months it was important to my budget to find something that was effective and dirt cheap.   I looked into setting up an electrolytic conversion tank, however I was concerned about leaving a power supply unattended as well as the potential fumes.   I figured it was as good a time as any to give this one a go.

There is no science to start the process,  reports vary on the ratios;  some people say 10:1 water to molasses, others 4:1, etc.   I met in the middle with 6:1.   Initially I just used some grocery store no name brand stuff, $2.99 a carton.  I poured the contents into a big bucket with hot water and dropped my parts inside.  I lost the before picture of my first lot, take my word for it this stuff was caked in rust.  It looked as though I had found it at the bottom of the ocean!  Thankfully I wasn't in a rush for these parts, it took two weeks for things to really clean up.

After, before couldn't make it.

The photos don't these parts justice!  The clutch basket in particular came out like new. (top left corner of the picture)  There was a black film that was scrubbed away with a nylon brush and dish soap; I then sprayed a coat of WD40 to protect from fresh rust.  I was very pleased with the results and decided to invest $30.00 in a gallon of feed grade (the preferred option for those who use this method) from TSC.

The results with this molasses was much more impressive than the grocery store variety.  I have a large garbage can now, filled to the brim with a variety of parts 'Chelating'.  It seems to be working far more quickly this time with results as soon as a few days in.  The added bonus is that this can be dumped onto your garden or safely down the drain when done.  It is actually good for plant growth and is 100% biodegradable.

I won't delve into a scientific explanation here, however I will provide the link below. 

Chelation

Here are some tips for anyone wanting to try this at home.

1.  It leaves a distinctive odor, not foul per say but not pleasant, outside is better than inside.

2.  Wear gloves when pulling things out of the mixture.  The odor will stay on your hands otherwise even if you wash them a few times.  

3.  Pull your parts out every few days and wipe them down or rinse them off.  This will give the mixture better access to the bare metal.  

4.   When you make your mix, start with hot or boiling water. This will help the viscosity of the molasses and stop it from sinking to the bottom.  Stir vigorously.  I also believe that the reaction to hot water also speeds up the fermentation process.  

Next post I will show some updated pictures and speak more on the Matchless project; 

Have a safe weekend!