Matchless G3 assessment and a rather large surprise!

After playing with the new matchless single for a month, an update and initial assessment is quite overdue!

Let's start with the good.

Unlike almost everything else I have ever bought this bike is 95% complete.  This is a huge help as I want it back together within a few months rather than a few years.  The engine has excellent compression and turns over freely.  This, combined with the other pieces I have accumulated will make this a much less expensive project.

Now the Bad.

When I say 'bad' it really should be taken with a grain of salt.  If I didn't have the aforementioned parts at hand these line items would certainly be a pain.

-The rear wheel.  I am not sure what has been done to the rear wheel,  it turns freely (decent bearings) however the spindle cannot be removed due to rusted on components.  In addition, the wheel is coated in some sort of silver paint (complete with grit) that paint stripper won't remove.  I'll get tough with it later.  For now, I have a spare wheel ready to go.

-Front forks.  The lowers have hairline horizontal fractures.  Looks like someone landed quite hard!
Enter spare set of forks.

-Front Wheel.  Has a bent rim but very good for spares.

-The Frame.  The swing arm was junk, with an agricultural repair.  The bushings were incorrect, forcing me to carefully cut through said bushing to remove it.  I picked up the swing arm from the other '58 frame we acquired and switched it out.

The left side of the frame also had some extensive damage.  I was able to do a primitive but clean enough repair.

The first step was to bend the piece straight with heat and leverage.

The 'open wound' was beyond straightening.  I cut off the excess fold and
found some material to replace it.  I also sandwiched some steel in between to
 strengthen up the piece.  

After the first weld and grind.

Shot from the side.

Shot from the top.

I then cleaned up the frame and brush pained with Chassis black paint, which I had used previously on the VW.  I should have bought semi gloss, but so it goes. 

The painted frame as it sits now. 

I did some massaging to the hind quarter of the frame which was also a bit bent.  I had a set of girlings from the GMH (Great Matchless Haul) of 2016 which were the right size.  The incorrect items were put in the spares pile.  

In my excitement, I went and ordered an exhaust pipe from Walridge.  To my shock, the pipe was far too small.  The little G3 was hiding a big secret.  It had been converted to a 500! 

As far as surprises go, this was a pleasant one.  Fortunately the too small pipe found a home on the AJS and I ordered another.   The other arrived and was about 1/32" too small.  The P/O had done some sort of modification that removed too much surface from the exhaust port.  What to do?  I thought of getting/making and adapter or filling some surface with JB Weld.  Fortunately, I took the head and pipe to a local muffler shop.  Initially reluctant as he thought the pipe would crack, the manager agreed to flare out the end to fit.  After a few attempts it was near a perfect fit.  I could see some stress marks and decided not to push my luck further.  With a good exhaust sealant, all should be fine.   Best of all, I was not charged for the work. 

Eagle-eyed readers may have noticed something else unusual about the engine.  1958 models were originally equipped with a combination of  coil and points ignition and alternator to charge the battery.  The P/O modified the engine to run off of a Magneto while retaining the alternator.  Not the worst idea in the world as one can still run the engine with a flat battery.  

I can either convert to stock with side covers I found on Ebay or use an old Fairbanks Morse magneto to provide spark.  We shall see.  

Coming soon; Wheels, tank, seat and mudguards.

Until Next time! 

To Ragtop or not to Ragtop, that is the question!

At least that is the question on my mind today.

Yes,  I am finally getting back to the poor old Volkswagen project.  This August marks the 10th year anniversary of my sister's passing and I want to get her tribute back on track.

Over the next two days I am doing a list of all the jobs required to get this car running and back on the road.

One of the items I have been seriously considering is the addition of a sunroof kit.  It would be a shame to decide to do this after body work and paint were applied.  This is supposed to be a fun vehicle for weekend or the odd drive to work, probably seeing the most use in the spring/summer/fall.

Many VW enthusiasts source an original Golde sunroof with the surrounding metal from a donor car. While I am enthusiastic about this car, I can hardly say it is original anymore so that might be a touch extreme.

There are a few kits available and this one currently has my attention.

Ragtop Kit

At $720 U.S. (including shipping) the kit is just works out to $1000.00 Canadian.

If you haven't seen it already,  Max Wilson has a wonderful Youtube video of his father's Beetle restoration.  In the video, he installs a kit (making it look much easier than it probably is).

The video can be found here and is worth every minute of viewing time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WNv0fI-qzP8

I hope to have a decision made within the month.

I think this looks pretty sharp!

Weekend Work...

While I didn't achieve everything I wanted to on the weekend, I did get a few jobs done.

The first one had been bothering me for some time.  The right cylinder head had a long since seized spark plug stuck in the threads.   This was a very old KLG F.E. 125 which had probably been there for 50 plus years.  I started applying PB Blast over a year ago and would periodically take a stab at loosening it up.  I decided that it was time for some more radical action! 

The first step was to find 4 screws and washers to drill into a thick block of wood.  I made sure the washers would seat just below the head of the screws in order to prevent damage.  

I then secured the block into a work bench, found the appropriate socket and a large 'breaker' bar.  This is a large wrench lacking a ratcheting head.  

  

With the increased leverage, I was able to get it out although I did fight me.  I was quite pleased that there were no crossed threads.  Now if only I could get those valves out.  

The second accomplishment was the polishing of the AJS timing cover.  I have started getting better at repairing/cleaning up damaged pieces.  I find myself in a zen state while performing the repetitive movement and feeling the change to the surface.

Here is what I started with.  The cover had been cleaned up prior, in order to see clearly what needed attention.

The scars ran deep!  I imagine a combination of poor storage and having been dropped at least once.   While I would be wrong to erase fifty-plus years of character, leaving it this way was a touch too tatty.  

I began by putting a small flap wheel on my Dremel multitool.  If you lack one of these in your arsenal, I highly recommend getting one.  They are great for jobs like these where the work is confined and somewhat detailed.  Not to mention the multitude of other hobby related uses.  The variable speed option is quite handy as you run a lower risk of gouging the surface material.  I start by applying thin strokes over the damaged area, applying no pressure.  I let the flap wheel do the work and do it gently.  The more uneven the surface, the more work it is to even the surface.

This photo illustrates the piece after much of the grinding had been done.  I like to make a few passes over the area to smooth the surrounding out as well.  It is always a good idea to run a finger over the surface for feel.  I wear a mask, safety glasses and gloves as I don't want to breathe or wear aluminium dust.  

Normally I would start sanding with wet/dry emory cloth, starting with 400 grit and working up to 2000.  

This time I took a different approach and used a couple of different sanding sponges with soapy water.  This worked very well in my opinion, allowing me to cover the whole piece evenly, especially over and around the two humps.

  

This also saved quite a bit of time as well.  I did use a 1000 grit emory cloth for finishing purposes.

At this point, the worst of it had been removed, leaving only minor blemishing that I could live with.

Finally, I took some white compound and polished it out with my bench top buffer/grinder.

Needless to say I am quite pleased with the results!  One of the great things about restoring motorcycles is that if a single task meets an obstacle, one can move on to something else while waiting for a solution, part or tool.  Small jobs have a magical way of building you up and keeping the spirit of the project alive.

Until next time....

Put a Tiger On The Tank!

Happy New year!

I thought I would post a quick update and product review;   I have spent the last couple months working on the Matchless G9,  mostly gathering parts and getting a tonne of stuff powder coated.

Powder coating has become my preferred method of cleaning up old parts,  especially the black stuff. (I will get some snaps of all the lovely and shining bits in a future post) Now that the shop I use does sandblasting as well, it saves me a lot of time.  It is affordable, durable and looks very sharp.  This works very well when the surface of the item is in good shape,  but what do you when there are dents or damage?




Here are the Matchless tanks, (oil and gas) both with some damage/pitting.  I was certain that I would have use a stud welder to pull the dents and hope for the best.  I really didn't want to get these items painted or bondo and paint them myself.  The side cover and tool box are good and solid but badly pitted from years of neglect.  A decent set would have been around the $400.00 mark so I needed an easy solution!

Fortunately for me,  the powder coat shop had just the thing for me;  Tiger Epo Strong epoxy.  The fellow I deal with had purchased some to do a gas tank, had some left over and sold it to me at a discount.  This is similar to bondo, mixing the epoxy and hardener in a 2:1 ratio.  Unlike Bondo, you have time to work and shape it as it takes 24 hours to cure at room temperature.  Application is done in 5mm layers and then you can sand and shape as you would any other variety of filler.  Once satisfied, the item cures in the oven at 400F and can then be coated.

Here is what the product looks like, mine came complete with instructions in German!

The epoxy goes on quite smoothly and fills in dents easily.

So far so good,  I am slowly working with the stuff and am happy with the results;  The final test will of course be the final coating.   I hope to have that done in the next month or so.  

Product Review: Harbour Freight 5lb Vibratory Tumbler

I had to look through my old posts to find my last product review and it has been a while!  I guess the fewer items I need to buy, the luckier I should consider myself as I must be well stocked for tools and chemicals, oils, etc.  

This is what happens when you never throw anything away and hoard all the tools you can find!
If I spend enough time looking though, I can always find something that would make my life easier.

This is certainly the case with the vibratory tumbler (not an obscene device as the name would imply!) from Harbour Freight.  

Harbour Freight

These come in two varieties, 18lb capacity and 5lb;  essentially a plastic bowl (mounted on springs) that is vibrated by a 12 volt motor underneath.  The idea is that you add media (walnut shells, plastic beads, etc) to the bowl, then your items will be cleaned off by the friction created.

I have been considering one of these for some time; with the sheer volume of rusty hardware that came with the Matchless project, consideration became necessity.  

I did attempt to find one of these locally with no luck and was disappointed with the other options.  The prices I did find were in the 150.00 CDN range before shipping and taxes.  

The sale at Harbour Freight ($53.99 on sale from $99) warranted a cross border trip, despite the weak dollar.   As far as media, fine walnut shells seemed like the best option to start with. 

My first mistake was to not read the instructions.  It is important for best results to add your media first (two thirds of the bowl should be filled) then add your items for cleaning.  The total weight including media should not exceed 5 lbs otherwise cleaning takes a while.  My first run was probably 7 hours, the pictures are below.

Before;  Make to add your items after adding the media

Here are the after results;  some of the items had to be thrown back in for more work, this was the best fo the lot.

Overall, the initial results were impressive and after washing off the film left by the walnut shell oil I was even happier.  I then used the wire brush attachment on the drill to remove bits of shell from the threads. 

 Not entirely effort free but a tremendous time saver.  The machine seems to run very smoothly and I have had mine on for nearly a week continuously without issue.  While at work or even asleep, the work can continue without me!  

Once I have experimented with other media I will post the results here.  I hope to find something that will remove paint and rust a little quicker than the fine shells do.  

I am going to go as far as calling this an essential bit of kit for someone who does a lot of restoration work.  For the money (especially the current price) you can't really go wrong. 

Don't surprised to read a review for the 18lb model sometime in the future.

Next time:  Project updates,  VW, Matchless and Triumph! 

Netflix and Chelate...

Rust.  The bane of every mechanic and restorer's existence.  How many times have we excitedly reached for that perfect part at a swap meet only to see that it is badly pitted or unusable?

Being in Southern Ontario this is a reality that is unavoidable;  I have seen some beautiful cars and bikes become scrap after falling victim to our good friend iron oxide.

Over the years I have relied heavily on white vinegar, usually the cleaning type with a higher acid concentration.  I have also used WD40 and steel wool, mainly for cleaning rims, evaporust, Rust remover concentrate (from Lee Valley) and naval jelly.

In past posts I have touched on some of my experiences with these various methods, some good, some less than satisfactory.   Evaporust for example, works well but is very expensive if you have a lot of parts.  Vinegar is fine in the summer if you don't mind the smell, however in colder temperatures it is useless as I recently discovered.

I am very pleased to say that I have found my all time, number one go-to solution from here on out.

Molasses.   Molasses and water.

Though I wish I could take credit for this discovery, I can't.  This has been around for many years, very popular in Australia in particular.   In my aforementioned lean months it was important to my budget to find something that was effective and dirt cheap.   I looked into setting up an electrolytic conversion tank, however I was concerned about leaving a power supply unattended as well as the potential fumes.   I figured it was as good a time as any to give this one a go.

There is no science to start the process,  reports vary on the ratios;  some people say 10:1 water to molasses, others 4:1, etc.   I met in the middle with 6:1.   Initially I just used some grocery store no name brand stuff, $2.99 a carton.  I poured the contents into a big bucket with hot water and dropped my parts inside.  I lost the before picture of my first lot, take my word for it this stuff was caked in rust.  It looked as though I had found it at the bottom of the ocean!  Thankfully I wasn't in a rush for these parts, it took two weeks for things to really clean up.

After, before couldn't make it.

The photos don't these parts justice!  The clutch basket in particular came out like new. (top left corner of the picture)  There was a black film that was scrubbed away with a nylon brush and dish soap; I then sprayed a coat of WD40 to protect from fresh rust.  I was very pleased with the results and decided to invest $30.00 in a gallon of feed grade (the preferred option for those who use this method) from TSC.

The results with this molasses was much more impressive than the grocery store variety.  I have a large garbage can now, filled to the brim with a variety of parts 'Chelating'.  It seems to be working far more quickly this time with results as soon as a few days in.  The added bonus is that this can be dumped onto your garden or safely down the drain when done.  It is actually good for plant growth and is 100% biodegradable.

I won't delve into a scientific explanation here, however I will provide the link below. 

Chelation

Here are some tips for anyone wanting to try this at home.

1.  It leaves a distinctive odor, not foul per say but not pleasant, outside is better than inside.

2.  Wear gloves when pulling things out of the mixture.  The odor will stay on your hands otherwise even if you wash them a few times.  

3.  Pull your parts out every few days and wipe them down or rinse them off.  This will give the mixture better access to the bare metal.  

4.   When you make your mix, start with hot or boiling water. This will help the viscosity of the molasses and stop it from sinking to the bottom.  Stir vigorously.  I also believe that the reaction to hot water also speeds up the fermentation process.  

Next post I will show some updated pictures and speak more on the Matchless project; 

Have a safe weekend!

Matchless by Reputation!

So you've decided to buy a basket case.

 You have soul stirringly romantic notions of taking a rusted heap and watching it rise, phoenix like from the ashes.

It is a daunting task, with dizzying highs and sometimes painful lows.  Your free time will evaporate as will your extra cash.

There are few things however that are as satisfying and provide such a strong sense of accomplishment.

Let me show you what I dragged home.

The photos don't tell the whole story as there was quite a bit more buried in boxes and other items.  

Here is the the rough breakdown:

2x Frames (one single downtube, one duplex cradle frame)

2x Carbs  (one monobloc and another, much older Amal)

3 x wheels (2 rears and a front)

2 x Oil Tanks (vastly different shapes)

3 x Toolboxes 

2.5 Engines

2 Front Mudguards

2 Rear Mudguards

1 gas Tank

4 x center stands

2x sidestands

1.5 Gearboxes

3 x Lucas headlights (2 were scrap)

1 x BSA lightning seat

2 x sets of rear shocks

1 x steering damper

1.5 front ends

0.5x wiring harness

3x coils 

Loads of nuts and bolts, frame mountings, odds and ends that I am still going through! 

I confess that I knew very little about Matchless other than the company history before I took this on.  It was evident that I was going to need help and lots of it.   Unlike Triumph and BSA,  AMC motorcycles are a little bit trickier in regards to identifying parts and part numbers.  All the vintage parts books and manuals are available for free online, however I found them challenging to decipher. 

The best solution was to join the owner's club, http://www.jampot.com/default.asp 

They have excellent resources as well as frame identification service, if you are a member you pay five pounds for the service.  Interestingly enough, Matchless and AJS don't have matching numbers as Triumphs do.  The frames, engines and gearboxes all have different numbers!  If you want to ensure that you have a matching unit (as it left the factory) there is a dating officer who can research factory records and provide a report.  

As I typed in the digits I quietly hoped that one of these bikes was a G11;  This was the last bike my father rode in England.   

Drumroll please...

Category	Frame No	Engine No	Gearbox No	Year	Model	Other Information
Road	A27XXX	(hidden)		1955	55/20	Engine No., Dispatch date, Test date, Dealer, Testers name

Category	Frame No	Engine No	Gearbox No	Year	Model	Other Information
Road	A7XXXX	(hidden)	(hidden)	1960	60/G12DL	Engine No., Gearbox No., Dispatch date, Dealer, Testers name

I wasn't surprised by the G12,  the duplex frame, oil tank and side covers looked to be from a later model (the last true Matchless product before the Norton merger)

After joining the Jampot forum, I was told by the gurus that my 2 engines (seen on the bench) were 500cc G9's  however the stamping on one was ground off and the other re stamped with strange numbers.  The experts reckoned that these were early circa 1951 or 1952.  That means the best of the the two will fit the 1955 frame, originally designated for the equivalent AJS model (20).

What to do with the big pile of AMC goodness?  

I have started by separating the G12 from the G9,  something I am still not finished and frankly will probably never fully achieve.  This is due to the fact that many parts were shared among the different range.  That being said, I have managed to get all the major G12 components up in the rafters and put away for future restoration.  I will likely get to it in a few years after some other patiently waiting projects have been completed.  The G12 could use some fresh casings and the crankshaft needs some serious rust removal.  I am told that the 650cc engines were prone to blowing up as they tended to be abused in the day and did not receive proper maintenance.  I have a very kind friend who has offered me a set for postage (he has been working on these for 50 some odd years.).   I intend to put that bike back together to mostly original condition.  

The G9?  I have a frame, 1 complete motor and one parts motor.  I have 2 toolboxes and an oil tank.  

I have spare odds and ends in my garage that have been collecting dust.   I think I have found the blank canvas that I was looking for....

Crunching the numbers...

Much of what I've learned about bike restoration evolved  from my first real project, a 1969 Triumph Daytona. I bought the bike in pieces dragged it home with all these fantasies of bringing it back to glory.  2 and a half years later, the bike was together but never really worked the way I wanted her to.

The mechanic who rebuilt the engine (a true craftsman with British motors) took the bike and fixed many of the errors that were made.  Before relieving me of it, he looked at her then me.  'You took too long with it'. he said plainly.

I nodded and agreed with him, not fully understanding what he meant until many years later.  I figured that some restorations take many years and for a newcomer, I did pretty well.  I suppose I did, but with lots of help from some generous old timers who assisted me.  On my own?  God only knows.

With motorcycle restoration, I have always been guilty of romantic fancy.  I would describe it as Quixotic really, the desire to see great beauty in these forlorn and forgotten beasts.  With romantic fancy often comes poor planning and forgetting the reality of one's situation.   Skills, tools, space, money for instance.

The old adage 'Those who fail to plan, plan to fail.'  really rings true in these situations.  Have a look in any online classifieds site and you will find a long list of forgotten or abandoned projects.  Where did these builders go wrong?  Did they run out of money or just give up?  There is usually a good story in the ad, but who really knows.

The best approach I have ever seen was that of  a friend of mine.  He had a penchant for small capacity 2 strokes and would usually take a new project on every December.

Why December you ask?  My friend used to base his entire project on what he estimated his tax return would be.  This included the bike, the parts, the paint, the whole thing.   This kept him on track and more or less kept him from dipping into his coffers.

Experience is your biggest ally, even with it you still need to do your homework.

Before even thinking about buying that project ask yourself the following questions:
-Does the bike run?  Will it run?  what will it take to run?

A bike that doesn't run is essentially a boat anchor.  If that's what your after, have at it!

Look around you.  Where will you work on this bike?  Do you have the tools to do it?
Metric sockets and wrenches for Japanese bikes, Whitworth tools for older Brit bikes, for example.

Figure out the availability and prices of parts, including shipping.  Nowadays, shipping will almost count for half of your budget!

Another part of my philosophy; 'Hope for the best, but prepare for the worst'

For instance, if a bike has sat for ages, you can pretty much guarantee that every rubber component is dried out and has cracked.  Electrical components tend to age poorly, a rusty bike means moisture; the arch enemy of electrics.

Are the tires odd sizes? are they available?  Many vintage bikes can be oddballs in this fashion, another thing to be aware of.

While forums should be taken with a grain of salt, they can be a good source of information and a good way to find vendors and services.

The next part of my restoration mantra;  'Have a vision.'  Determine just what it is you want.  Draw sketches, find other pictures on the net that you find inspirational.  Once the vision and budget has been determined, it is much easier to stay on track and attain your goals.

My final note is about budget.  Can you afford this?  by which I mean realistically?
If it's a dream bike, perhaps the money and time you spend is worthwhile.  When you look at the money involved and envision the end product, ask yourself.... 'If I saw this bike for sale at $X would I pay that much for it?'  If you wouldn't pay that much for a restored bike, why would you pay that much to restore it?

As for my Dual Twin,  I am pleased to say that I am pretty much on budget (by today's calculation I have $150.00 left to play with) though I am certain I will go a little over.  I am sad to say that I haven't gotten as far as I would have liked due to time constraints.  This is the other bit of number crunching to consider.  Time is money as they say;  Most of seem to have money and no time; no money and lots of time or end up the poor bastard with neither.

One day I will tell you about an added philosophy I call the Christina Hendricks test.....a story for another time! (you have imaginations, I'm sure you can work it out)

As I descend from my soapbox I leave you with a Japanese Cyborg that resembles a grasshopper riding a motorcycle to an epic theme tune.

(Bridge)Stone Cold......

Don't worry, I only have a few more lame titles incorporating Bridgestone in them.   I will at some point use (Bridge)Stone on the river Kwai.  I don't know how or when, but mark my words...

As you recall, I decided restore the 175 Dual Twin and gave myself a limited budget and time frame to do it in.  Judging by what I have seen so far, this should be the easiest project I have taken on.  I am not a mechanic by any stretch, (I do plan on taking a small engine repair class in the fall) I have friends who played with Lambrettas and Vespas for years and know two strokes intimately.  The fact that the engine turns freely and has decent compression has me feeling good about the outcome.

Here is where we are at so far in no specific order;

Peek a Boo!

Massive Air Filter!

Surprisingly, not to bad after a little elbow grease!

While I was initially worried about my lack of metric tools, it turned out that all I needed was two 14mm sockets, two 10mm sockets and a small wrench with 10mm on one end and 8mm on the other.  That last wrench was a snap-on that I found lying on the road when I was out on my Triumph Scrambler one day... staying observant has its rewards!

It all came apart with remarkable ease, no use of propane torch or hammer required.  In the course of the strip down I noticed several interesting things.  From a technology perspective I will start with the frame.  It is a tubular design, most contemporary Japanese bikes had a pressed steel frame (as the Sport 90 does).  Not only does this look more attractive, I am certain it handles better as well.  

Bridgestone were known for racing and even took their class at Daytona in 1966.  The footage of that race can be seen here.

Further to this, the engine is equipped with dual enclosed carbs and a sophisticated yet simply constructed air intake system.  This allowed the rider to go off road without anything getting into the carbs.  Air was sucked into the giant air filter (this thing is like a little cannon!) then into a chrome tube straight to the enclosure.  I imagine it much easier to adjust from the side then from the back of the engine.  

The engine also featured 'sport shifting' which would allow the rider to have either a 4 speed transmission or switch to 5 speed.  I am still trying to wrap my head around the rotary valve system and some of the other details of this interesting little machine.  

Now onto finish.  I have never been a fan of Japanese chrome, especially the vintage variety.  It tends to be paper thin and can sometimes be peeled off by hand in extreme cases.  I was quite worried about the rust on the rims, shocks, bars...etc.  I was imagining having to scrap a whole pile of parts, something I loathe doing.  I will do anything to avoid scrapping parts, which has led me to do a great deal of experimenting with tools, rust removers and other solutions.

My old standby is WD40 and 0 fine steel wool.  I have saved many a British rim with this method and then a treatment with Autosol.  I am very pleased to report that these rims appear to not only be salvageable, but should actually look quite good when finished!  I was a little surprised that rear tire looked fairly new, no cracking or dryness and the treads are in great shape.   It's fairly clear that this machine could not have been used in a number of years, based on the condition of the battery (the original battery from what I can tell) and the colour of the oil.  Another mystery I will never be able to solve is the crack in the top yoke (or top tree if you prefer).  How the hell does one do that?  Probably the same incident that cost the bike its headlight and front mudguard.

I will be leaving a great deal of parts in white vinegar to see how clean I can get them and  then sandblasting the larger items. I am also trying out a UK made rust removal product that my father picked up at Lee Valley.

It is mixed with 5 liters of waters, parts are submerged then washed off.  I am currently soaking the rear shocks (which seem to have a lot of life left in them) they are badly pitted, I am hoping I can rescue them.  

Certain items are going to be binned for sure, they are just too far gone.  Shifter and brake pedals, probably the handlebars (which appear to be from a different model anyway) and the rear brake arm.

The rear mudguard is nice and straight but badly oxidized.  I will sandblast that too.

Now I just need to pick out some colours.....